Live from the Car Care Studios, it's the CNC Auto Show with your personal on-air and online automotive service advisors, Aaron Clements and John Ryan Mooney. So climb in, buckle up and enjoy the ride on the CNC Auto Show. And we do welcome you to the CNC Auto Show.
You jump in, buckle up and hold on. I'm your host, Aaron Clements. We're here to answer your automotive questions and share some tips. Talk about cars. We all love cars here. That's just an enjoyment, including Jim Pate.
He's here with us today. Jim is a do-it-yourself car detailer. He's been doing it for many years and he does it out of love. He does it because he enjoys making a car look its best.
And I've seen him take ones that really had some issues and turn them into something beautiful. So Jim, again, we appreciate you being here with us today and sharing knowledge. I'm taking away information just as much as I'm giving it, I promise you. Beautiful. We were talking to John.
I'm going to bring John back. John, you have a 90 non-suburban, got some miles on the transmission, but it's got some issues with it shifting, not going into overdrive. And you have discovered that when it's acting up and did not shift, that you can pull over to the side of the road, cut it off, crank it back, and then it'll shift after that. Does that sound correct?
Yeah. Once it's warmed up, before it warms up, it won't even downshift. It just shifts normally the first time you take off, uh, right through three gears and, and then stops. It doesn't go into overdrive and then it doesn't downshift unless you pull over after it's warmed up and turn this thing off and let it sit for about 30 seconds or so. If you crank it immediately when you pull over, turn it off and crank it right back up, it doesn't change it. But if it's off for 30 seconds or so, then it does change.
Okay. And what, uh, what the vehicle sounds like it's doing is going into limp home mode. Many years ago before vehicles, when they had computer systems, but they didn't have limp home mode, they had tennis shoe mode. When a sensor went out, you were pretty much a certain sensors.
When they went out, you were pretty much walking because there was no other way, uh, to do anything. It just, uh, wouldn't go. The vehicle would not, uh, would not move. Uh, and then if it had to do with the running of the vehicle, it would cut off and wouldn't go now with lip almost the, this, the computer is set up in a way to where it can use just certain readings, just, uh, uh, uh, average type readings to make it to where you can still drive the car and on the transmission many times, that means just sticking it in second gear. Uh, the computer might say, well, I'm, I'm not going to shift this vehicle because if I do, I might make a bad mistake. Uh, like for instance, going 60 miles an hour and shifting down into first gear would not be good.
So it sets us up wrong and it sticks it. Yours sounds like it might be sticking it in second gear. And it does that because the computer received a signal that it didn't understand. And with that, it goes into lip hall mode.
Now, when you cut the car off for a period of time and then crank it back, you are rebooting the system just like rebooting a computer and it forgets uh, it partially forgets what had happened, but it does store a code in its memory of why it did that. Now, many times you can't hook just a regular generic scan tool reader like a lot of people do at no charge, including us, we check codes at no charge. Uh, but many times that code is stored in a different area of the computer that an average tester won't pick up. So what I'd recommend doing, and I'm trying to, uh, in saying this, save as much money as I can first, if you found somebody just to check the trouble codes for free, because that way, if you can find out what it is at no charge or what areas causing the problem, then of course doing that.
But if it shows no codes, then I would take it to somebody that runs diagnostics and to hook a regular type piece of equipment up to it that reads many times people to charge anywhere from 90 to 150 to do that and run the code chart and find out why it's on. Now, here's an example. Let's say the car's rolling along and it was reading 30 miles an hour. And then all of a sudden, boom, the computer saw that it was only going five miles an hour. It would know that that's impossible. There's no way for it to go that rapidly from 30 to five or to zero. And so it would, it would say, I got a problem.
Boom, I'm going into second gear. And then when you pull over and it starts receiving the speed sensor again and the reading and everything, I do good for a period of time. So you could have something as simple as like a speed sensor being bad, which can be changed without anything terrible. But there's also things inside the transmission, like certain shifts, solenoids or speed pressure sensors and temperature transmission, temperature sensors that can do it. Now, being open with you, if it turns out to be something that can be changed externally or even something by just pulling the pan off, I would probably do it. If it got deeper than that, I would not do it because there's a chance you might spend three, four, $500 on doing something and you might still have your same problem.
So it would all start, though, with checking that trouble code and finding out what codes are stored in the, in the computer. Okay. Well, I will get that checked out then. Have you got, can I ask one other question? You sure can.
Okay. Probably a half a dozen times over the 500 plus thousand miles we have, the plastic heater control valve has just broken apart and so we lose all the coolant and I'm surprised that hasn't killed the engine as many times as it's happened. Does it make a metal one? You know, there is a possibility that Dorman Products does make a metal one. You can go to O'Reilly Auto Parts and they have done very well with designing parts better than what the factory did. And that's what they do. As a matter of fact, I get emails from them and they send them out to technicians around the country that if you get a part that has failed a large number of times, send it to us.
And I think they compensate people in certain ways. But what happens is they take that part, find out why it failed, redesign it and make it to where a person could buy one that won't fail in the same way again. So I would check to see the type heater control valve that Dorman Products makes for that vehicle.
And again, a lot of parts houses would have that, but we normally check with O'Reilly Auto Parts and they normally let us know if the type design Dorman has. Okay, that sounds good. Thank you. Okay. And congratulations on getting some good miles on that vehicle.
Again, I love seeing that. Well, thank you. I have a question about cleaning if you can take it, but if you've got other collards.
Oh, we're here to help. We're ready for the cleaning question. Okay, you got a car that's just been sitting a long time. It's got green slime or black mold all over it. What's the best way to get that off without damaging the paint that's under it? John, I love that. I just bought one like that last November. It's a blue car.
I know it is because it was blue in the sides, but most of the tops and upper portions of the sides, the car was black. First thing is water, water, water. Okay. Get it real good and wet. You make up that soap solution, the dilution ratio that you're accustomed to, but you want a nice soft applicator and you just work in it. It's important now out of the sun and in a cool place.
Now we're here in South Carolina, Georgia is cool. Just doesn't really seem like the right word right now, but in this case, work in the shade. The finish is cool and just take your time with it. Slight agitation and it'll come off.
Take your time. You might have to do it twice. So what's the best cloth or whatever you would use to rub it with? What's the best material for that? The next time you're in O'Reilly Auto Parts, you go over there, buffing wheel section, and you get the buffing wheel that does not have the rigid pad on the back. It's got an elastic and that has a band on it. It's just for tying it onto the buffer. It's nine to 10 inch buffer size and it's made out of a synthetic wool.
I use that all the time with Meguiar's car shampoo. John, great questions. We're going to be taking a real quick break.
John, thank you very much for the questions. We appreciate it. Thank you. Thank you. Bye bye.
Okay. We'll be right back. Let's head back down to the car care studio with Airman Clements and John Ryan Mooney O'Reilly Auto Parts is here to keep your car on the road with the right parts advice from their professional parts people and their free loaner tool program.
No need to purchase a tool. If you're only going to use it once your local O'Reilly Auto Parts has more than 80 specialty tools available to rent for your next repair refundable deposit required at time of rental stopped by O'Reilly Auto Parts today and asked about their free loaner tool program or visit OReilly auto.com. We are back with you. Give us call 800-224-9090. That's any Saturday mornings, 805 to 10 Eastern time. Or you could also watch us on Facebook. And just because you watch us on Facebook does not mean that you cannot still pick up the phone and call 800-224-9090.
You can still join the show has to be eight to 10 on Eastern time though. Give us a call. And we are going over to David. David, welcome to the CNC auto show.
Well, thank you. I have a question about a 97 4Runner. It has disc brakes on the front and drums on the rear.
And when you're driving and breaking it pulses which indicates warped rotors. Could it be anything else? Let's see here.
Let's think about it. Well, one little tricky thing is being sure whether it's the front rotors and I'm assuming that one's got drum on the back. Correct. Every now and then you run into something on the rear. Yeah.
Every now and then it turns out to be the drums. Now you can tell the difference between the two by on that vehicle. This is not every every vehicle though. But you can be driving at a standard speed and barely push on the emergency brake. Now some of these vehicles are set up to where when you push to break down, you can't just release it right away. You have to push it the rest of the way down.
This has a handle so you can push it up and test it like you're saying. Exactly. So you can tell if you don't feel that same vibration when you pull the emergency brake up, then it is going to be the front. And I would say I can't really think of anything else that would cause that other than the front rotors. And many years ago, we used to resurface rotors.
But now we just replace them. The price of the rotors have come down tremendously on what they were. So you can buy a set about as little as you can turn them and resurface them. You can just go to O'Reilly Auto Parts and say, hey, I need rotors. Matter of fact, many times you can buy a brake kit to where it comes with the rotors and the brake pads together. And that I guess I'd be like bundling your auto insurance.
It's a little bit less. So that's the route I would go. And I would probably recommend, unless the pads are fairly new, I would probably just recommend doing a front brake pads and rotors on the vehicle. Well, that was one of the questions I was going to ask you about turning the rotors rather than replacing them. The rotors on that vehicle have been replaced once and they're very, very pricey. OK, I have a second question if you have time. We're ready.
We do. On that same vehicle, it's not my daily driver, so I get it out and drive it around once in a while to keep everything working. When I came home, I parked it, came back in the garage later and I smelled what I thought was a coolant.
And in fact, it was. I popped the hood and the radiator hose from the top radiator hose from the engine to the radiator. It had come loose on the radiator side. Now that radiator has been replaced along with the hoses and the clamps.
They're all fairly new. And I can't believe that the hose just shook loose. I mean, I've had the vehicle for 24 years and nothing like that's ever happened. So I'm wondering if there was sufficient pressure to push the hose off the radiator, the upper radiator hose, what would cause that? A bad radiator cap or what or anything else? Well, the radiator cap, when they go bad, I've never seen a radiator cap let it hold too much pressure, but I guess it is possible, but very unlikely. The pressure on that vehicle is usually somewhere around 12 psi pressure that it would hold and then it would release the rest. Now, of course, if there is an issue with something like a head gasket or something like that, it could over pressurize the system and blow a hose off. So there is the possibility that something internal on the engine could cause that. But you would normally have a running hot problem to go along with it. It wouldn't just blow the hose off and not be able.
I think Jim has got something for us too. If I understood it correctly, it was leaking at the where the one of the main hoses went on and the hose was actually removed. Right, the hose evidently blew off. The hose just completely blew off on the radiator, not the engine side.
And that hose is in an S shape and it's under tension. The hoses are fairly new and the clamps are really strong, so I'm just perplexed. I wonder if there is a possibility that the inside diameter of the radiator hose is not properly configured for the outside diameter of the radiator connection. So if it's a little too large, that could compromise how well the radiator clamp is holding it. Sometimes also on radiator clamps, if they're over tightened, they can also become a little stripped and they can actually back off a notch and then they're not tight again. Both of those are very good possibilities.
So you may take the hose and make sure that it presses over there fairly tightly and snug without the clamp on there first and then just put a new clamp on there to be sure and then keep an eye on the system. And the radiator caps are so cheap, I believe I'd just put one on there just to be sure and then see if the problem goes away. That's what I'm going to do.
I'm going to get one this morning and start with that. Yeah. Okay. Yeah, just to be on the safe side. Okay.
All right, well I appreciate your help. Great questions, David, and thank you very much for giving us a call. The number to call is 706-863-5800. We'll be going to, but I don't think we would do justice to the next call because we have about 30 seconds to go with.
So we will go ahead and take our next break and we'll be back just after these messages. When you need auto parts, OReillyAuto.com is just a few clicks away. We offer convenient options for you to get your parts quickly. Order online and pick up for free at your local O'Reilly Auto Parts store. We'll even bring it out curbside or you can have your parts delivered right to your door with free shipping on most orders over $35.
Visit OReillyAuto.com. I use JB well at home and work at work for certain automotive repairs and at home for DIY projects, plumbing, Marine, and more for projects big and small at home or in the garage. I love my JB well in fact, JB well products can be used on practically anything, metal, wood, plastics, glass, ceramics, and more JB well available at JB well.com Lowe's advanced auto parts, Napa O'Reilly Michaels, and more JB well world's strongest bond. It's time for more good stuff with Aaron Clements and John Ryan Mooney. The CNC auto show is brought to you by blaster makers, a PB blaster, the number one penetrant for breaking free rusted parts.
Always use blaster products and work it like a pro. We are back with you. I'm your host Aaron Clements here with expert DIY vehicle detailer, Jim Pate, and we are ready for your automotive questions, your car detailing questions, and all you have to do is give us a call. 800-224-9090. You can also watch us on Facebook. And just because you watch it on Facebook does not mean that you still can't call. You can call and wherever you're watching the Facebook app, you can give us a call.
That's 805 to 10 Eastern time when you call. And we had a, one of these large meetings, uh, during the last break and we talked about David's problem. David has a 97 Toyota mentioned that his front brake rotors were out around. He was getting a lot of pulsating and we, uh, he mentioned that the rotors had been replaced before Jim brought up a good point where we're talking about this. And, uh, that that's our whole, uh, research team research, but we, uh, but what we, uh, what we talked about was that it's important to check the rear brakes also to make sure that they're not either crystallized. Uh, sometimes they can look good, but still not have any stopping power or make sure that they're adjusted correctly.
And in doing that, because if you're, if your rear brakes are not applying properly, it throws all the weight on the front brakes and can cause them to get out around and things like that. So Jim, I appreciate you bringing that up also. Uh, that's what happens when you drive old cars. Yes. Are we ready to go to the next caller? Let's go. Let's look this over here. Let's go over to Michael. Michael, welcome to the CNC auto show. And what can we help you with?
Well, good morning. I recently purchased a 2010 Toyota Tundra 5.7 liter engine, and it has 165,000 miles on it, but it's just a great truck. I'm getting ready to do my first maintenance on it. And I went to the local Toyota place and got them to run the service records because everything had been done there. And I noticed that the transmission had never been serviced. I'm not having a problem with the transmission, but I don't want to create a problem. I wanted to look at the fluid, but it doesn't have a dipstick. It appears to be a sealed unit. So I'm looking for direction. Okay.
All that are great questions. And the, uh, and it's good that you're looking at that because you got to figure that transmission fluid, it absolutely has to wear out at some time. Now, normally the process is the transmission fluid gets hot and the hotter the fluid gets, the faster it loses its viscosity and ability to lubricate the parts inside there. Not to mention you always, if you got two metal parts beside each other, even if they're well lubricated, they're going to be some kind of metalware.
So metal will be inside the transmission at one point. So the secret to make it at last a long, long time is to get that old fluid out. That's lost its viscosity and has some contaminants in it out of there and get new in. Now, many years ago, they used to say, pull the pan off and, and put a new filter and put the pan back on and put fluid back in. The only trouble is you're only putting five quarts of fluid back in when the system actually holds about 12 quarts, including the torque converter and different places in the transmission. So that caught that many years ago, that would cause some problems because you were mixing new fluid with old fluid.
That was like washing dishes with dirty dishwater, wasn't really doing any good and sometimes cause some harm. So now they have transmission fluid exchange machines. And with that, uh, the fluid is pumped out of the transmission under its own power because they're pumping it up to the cooler anyway. And it goes under this piston and this piston has new fluid on top of it. So it just lets new fluid go in to take its place.
So then you're getting a hundred percent fresh fluid in the system, and that has not caused any problem. And even with 165,000 miles, if you're not experiencing any, uh, issues with the transmission, it would be a great candidate for doing it. Some of the more important things is to make sure the correct fluid is used because, uh, different, uh, car manufacturers use different specifications for fluid.
So you want to find fluid that meets or exceeds the fluid, uh, recommendations for that car. And I think that would be a great service, uh, to do on the vehicle. Okay. Yeah. I had talked with the service manager and told him my concerns. I've heard horror stories in the past and he said, well, maybe we just do a drain and refill like you discussed, I think mentioned dropping in the pan, but you feel comfortable. You feel like it's okay at this point.
Yes. I would rather do a total fluid exchange as opposed to just a drain and fill drain and fill. You're still only getting five quarts out.
Exactly. And you still got all that in the torque converter and you're still mixing detergent type transmission fluid that breaks, uh, loosens and holds, um, uh, contaminants and suspension. You're, you're still got that in the system and it could do more harm than good. Uh, with the total fluid exchange, I would do it. Now, uh, some people on some vehicles, they worry about a filter inside the transmission.
Well, Ford motor company did a study a good many years back and they discovered that even after a hundred thousand miles, that filter was only 10% restricted. So there's unless a pan is leaking, I would not pull that transmission pan off the vehicle because it's hard to get that factory seal back once it's broken, then transmission fluids tend to leak. Not to mention some people when they pull them down, they'll loosen all the bolts, but two, so it don't make a mess and then let the pan drop down. Well, that bends to pan. So then from then on out, you got a leak on the transmission.
So, uh, lead the pan on there. Now, the reason that they did not leave a dipstick on there is they were finding that people were, uh, they'd see where the fluid look low cause it'd be at the bottom of the hash marks when it was cold and they would add some fluid and then transmission fluid expands at a pretty good rate. So they were actually overfilling the transmission and or putting the wrong type fluid in and that was causing more harm. They didn't do it to try to keep people from working on their own car because of anything to do with money. They were doing it because people were messing up their own transmission by trying to do it their self and transmission fluid does not burn like engine oil.
It don't, it don't go away. So the only way it's going to be low is if you got a leak somewhere and that needs to be repaired anyway. So if a transmission is dry and you don't have any leaks in the levels, going to be good. Very good. Very good. That's awesome advice there. And then you've serviced my vehicles for years and I just put all my trust in you and I thank you for your advice this morning. We appreciate that very much. And I hope you have a wonderful weekend.
You too. Number to call 7 0 6 8 6 3 5 800. We are talking about car detailing and we are also talking, uh, just taking automotive questions and let's see here. Let's go over to John. John, welcome to the CNC auto show.
And what can we help you with? Good morning, Aaron. How are you doing? Doing very well. Uh, I'm kind of jealous now. My Durango has 200,000 on it, but I heard that guy had 500,000.
So now I'm looking for 600,000. You know, I love, I love seeing that John, because that, and I love seeing cars that come into the shop that we've worked on for many years and they have a lot of miles and still a good, nice looking, safe, dependable vehicle. That means something's being done right. And I also know that the person who owns it is doing right because they, they have done the things they needed to make it last a long time. What I see sometimes is a car get a lot of miles on it. It'll get a 200, 250. And somebody says, well, this car is getting kind of old.
I don't really want to spend a lot more money on it. Uh, cause something may go bad. And sure enough, because you stopped spinning and doing the maintenance on it, it does go bad. And you take a car that could go 250, 300, 350,000 miles, either as a primary car or secondary car. And, and instead it, if you, if you don't continue that maintenance, it will go down and won't last a length of time that it could have.
Well, I agree completely. Uh, you know, you just saw this one here about two weeks ago, but my question is, uh, on car chips, uh, I got a bunch of questions, I guess, related to that. Why can't the United States make our own chips and get away from Chinese chips?
And when the new cars come out, are they coming out because the chip shortage, are they coming out as 2021s or 2022s? How's that going to work? I got a rough idea on that, but I got a strong feeling that Jim may have some answers to it also. And, and, and that that's, that is a great question, John. So what we're going to shoot for is letting you hold through the break and we're going to come back to that as soon as we return. Okay. I'll be okay. Oh, I messed up.
Okay. Uh, we'll be right back after these messages. It's O rewards member appreciation month at O'Reilly auto parts, where you can earn double triple, even up to five times over rewards points on select purchases, get bonus points on more than 200 items throughout the store. Like wiper blades, fuel system, cleaners, motor oil, and more stopped by O'Reilly auto parts today, or visit OReilly auto.com. Welcome back to more of the CNC auto show with Aaron Clements and John Ryan Mooney And we do welcome you back to the CNC auto show. If you have a question about your car truck or SUV, give us a call.
800-224-9090. That's Saturday mornings, 805 to 10 Eastern. We were talking with John and John had a great question about computer chips and John, if I'm not mistaken, you asked, why don't we produce a lot of our own computer chips? Yes, they are. And I mean, we can put them out on the moon. We can make a computer chip for goodness sakes.
Yes. And we can have a Tesla roadster that's flying out somewhere in space right now. And we not able to produce our own chips. It, it has a lot to do with the, with financial stuff. They have found that it is cheaper or many companies found that it was cheaper to have the chips produced overseas. The U S produces roughly about 12% of the chips and about 75% of them are produced in Asian countries. And that's also due to several different reasons. One, it has to do with of course, labor, the price of labor at many of the Asian countries. And it also has to do with regulations. The U S has many regulations having to do with production of chips and it can passing through all those regulations can make it very expensive to do that. And in short, everything I just said is still boils down to your question. Why don't we make it happen? Why don't we produce our own chips?
And I agree with you. Uh, but that, that is the answer, but I don't know that it is a good answer. I think it is something that should be asked, uh, very seriously. Well, Aaron, uh, you know, I get what you're saying, but if you can't get chips, you're not making any money. So getting cheaper chips is not the answer. I think we're finding out that on a lot of things that it's not that good to rely on other countries. We need to be self dependent and a lot of areas. And of course, I've always been real careful not to move into the political side of anything, but this part's not, uh, not saying anything political. What I am saying is that we need to produce our own stuff. We need to, uh, we need to be, uh, independent because if you depend on somebody real heavily, then if that's taken away, you might cause a lot of harm to a lot of people. And that's, uh, that's what we're seeing. So I agree with you a hundred percent. We need to be producing our own chips and we need to find ways to make them at a, uh, a good price, uh, to be able to, to, to build these.
So that's, uh, so, uh, John, in short, there's no good answer. I enjoy your show. Thank you so much.
I love having lovely guests. Yeah. Yeah. I agree.
Jim's doing great. And, uh, that was a great question, John. Thank you. Okay.
All right. Now we're gonna call 7 0 6 8 6 3 5 800 or 800 2 2 4 9 0 9 0. And we will move over to Chris.
Chris, welcome to the CNC auto show. Morning guys. How y'all doing this morning? Doing great.
So I had a question this morning. I had called, it's been almost a year ago about my 2010 Ford fusion. It had a power steering issue. And one of the things John Ryan had mentioned was possibly having a weak battery. And I had load tested and checked my voltage with the engine running and it was hearing good folks from the alternator.
And I couldn't figure out what was going on with it. And I just drove with no power steering for about a year. And finally my battery gave out when I put a new battery in the car, apparently it had enough activation voltage from the battery to activate whichever sensor it was controlling the power steering module.
And it's working fine now. But one of the questions I had was one, is there a better battery that I could use? It may hold longer because the battery I had was able to start the engine and operate everything else fine. But I guess it didn't make the activation voltage for the sensor to start the power steering system, the electric power steering system. And also is there an activation voltage for those kind of sensors to look for for people like me that like to work on stuff at home that we can look for if we're having a sensor issue like that?
Yes. The battery question, that is a great question because there are better batteries than the standard lead acid batteries. And that is the glass map batteries, AGM. And one of the better ones, well, the best one that I know of is the Optima battery, which is made by Clarios. And that battery is designed with you don't have the lead acid in there. So they're more resistant to vibration. They just last longer than a standard battery.
So if you wanted a more long lasting battery, a better battery, I would say the Optima battery from you can get it at O'Reilly Auto Parts made by Clarios. Now, the part having to do with diagnosing the issue separately is many times there's code stored in the computer that have to do with why the power steering won't work. And with that, you would need to have a different type piece of equipment than just your standard thing that you would get a free code check with. And don't get me wrong, I'm not against free code checks because it can save people a lot of money. For instance, if you plug in and it says you got a large EVAP leak and you reach back there and your gas cap's loose, there's no need to spend money on diagnostics to tell you that.
So I think it's important to take advantage of those free checks when you can. But I also feel like once you've passed that point, it's better to go ahead and move on to a piece of equipment that'll tell you what's wrong. And of course, with that, more than likely your computer had a code stored in it having to do with steering controls that was causing your power steering not to work. And it might have been a low voltage code in there.
If the low voltage code was stored, you'd say, well, replace the battery and clear the code and let's see how it does. And last thing I'm gonna mention now, I'm gonna make sure I tell John Ryan that he was right. Yeah, we miss him a lot. John Ryan's spending time with his family on weekends. His kids are getting AIDS and he needed to spend some time with him. So he's doing that. But we about got him talked in to come and visit him from time to time on the show. Well, that's wonderful.
We miss him out here in radio land. Yeah, absolutely. But I appreciate that. Is that code? So I had checked with an OBD2 code reader. Is there a different type of code reader that you could recommend or a better code reader for home use that somebody could get? Because mine is about as cheap as I think I was able to find it.
I wasn't able to find the code. Yeah, now a regular code reader, now that gives you more generic codes. And you normally get those from anywhere from $39 to $100 right around in that range. A actual system that will read and use bidirectional capability to be able to troubleshoot a problem like that to make sure what's there usually runs more in the neighborhood of anywhere from $5,000 to $15,000, depending on what you're making while it goes. So what I recommend instead of somebody going out on a problem like that, buying a machine $5,000 or $10,000, I recommend you can rent the machine and the technician for about $100. No, I'm just kind of cutting up with that. But I mean, it's not something that you would want to purchase just to do one card to read that code.
But again, now the code, those that love to do stuff at home, those little code readers are nice because you can read a lot of different things out of those. I got you. Well, I appreciate y'all taking the call today. Well, we thank you very much for calling. Okay. All right. Wow, we're starting to run short on time.
I wanted to be able to ask one more quick question to Jim because he's been such a wonderful wealth of information for us. What's dwell time? Dwell time is a term that applies to how long you leave a activation chemical in place in order for it to do its job. And it's important that during dwell time that you keep it moving, you never let it dry because if that happens, you start to have negative effects as well as not accomplishing your goal.
So dwell time is the theory that applies to how long something stays where you put it before you disable it with additional water or rinse it away completely. Oh, wonderful. Like don't leave your water, your soap on the car too long. Don't leave your wax on the tube. Yeah.
Like in that picture behind us, if you're watching on the computer. All right. Okay. We're out of time.
Time clocks on me. Thank you, Jim, for being here with us. Thank you, Mason and Casey is in there with Mason today. And we want to say thank you to all that tuned into the CNC auto show.
