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#171 - DIYers (Hour 2)

The C&C Auto Show / Aaron Clements and Justin Courtney
The Truth Network Radio
April 28, 2022 8:36 pm

#171 - DIYers (Hour 2)

The C&C Auto Show / Aaron Clements and Justin Courtney

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April 28, 2022 8:36 pm

Aaron Clements and John Ryan Mooney discuss various automotive issues, including intermittent misfires, rough idles, and fuel trim problems. They offer advice on using scan tools, performing diagnostics, and troubleshooting electrical issues in vehicles.

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Live from the Car Care Studios, it's the CNC Auto Show with your personal on-air and online automotive service advisors, Aaron Clements and John Ryan Mooney. So climb in, buckle up, and enjoy the ride on the CNC Auto Show. And we do want to welcome you to the CNC Auto Show. I'm Aaron Clements, here to share tips on making your car safer, more dependable, and more fun to drive, and all that for less money.

Along with answering automotive questions, I'll continue to talk about things that you can do yourself on your car and some car repair safety tips also. And I'm asking you to join in. You can do that by dialing 800-224-9090 or 706-863-5800. That's on any Saturday morning between 805 to 10 Eastern time. You can listen right here on iHeartRadio or watch live on Facebook. So buckle up and let's ride. Oh, and once again, I want to, I want to welcome K232FT, FMKELD, AM, Monroe, Louisiana. I want to say thank you for all of you riding with the CNC Auto Show. And let's, let's start this thing out by going by and talking to Jim. Hello, Jim. Welcome to the CNC Auto Show. Good morning, Aaron and Mason.

I'd like to talk about some do-it-yourself opportunity here. Absolutely. I love it.

Okay. Last week I called in and referenced a intermittent miss on a car. I had introduced some fuel injector cleaner through the tank and it was either a coincidence or it was unrelated or related to that application. So I've run the rest of that out and it got down to the last few gallons of fuel, refilled it, driving it.

I still have it. So here's what the do-it-yourself part comes in. We talked about searching for codes and so forth. And I've stopped by the auto repair shop and I've connected their device to it over this last few hundred miles of fuel consumption, including after changing the fuel.

There's never been a diagnostic trouble code. Okay. So I'm trying to see if there's a way I can justify the purchase of, and if so, make the right purchase for a scan tool that might help me with this. And I have a couple of questions about heading down that road that maybe you can help me with. Okay.

Okay. Since I have no diagnostic trouble codes through the simple devices they have there, is there a certain characteristic, and I've done a little reading on the web about some things here, maybe you can supplement that, something I'm looking for in a scan tool that will help me find something that I know is going on, but there's no diagnostic trouble codes. What am I looking for in a scan tool? That's my first question. If I'm not mistaken, that'd be called mode six. And that identifies the plugs or the misfire counts on the vehicle. And if you can look at the misfire counts and know, uh, if one is much higher than another cylinder, then you would know that that particular cylinder is where the problem is. Now, what we do on many occasions, if we sense that one cylinder has a high misfire count, it wouldn't be unusual for us to swap the coil and the plugs with a different cylinder and see if the higher misfire goes to a different cylinder. And then we can identify if we need to just replace the coil and plug, or if we need to, or if the problem is a little deeper having to do with injection, uh, a fuel issue or something different.

All right. I'm looking at a list of modes here and I'm down to mode six and mode seven. Mode six on this one website says those are non-continuous monitors for no code diagnosis and pending problem detection. Whereas mode seven is continuous monitors, fuel trim, misfires and comprehensive components. So would that be mode seven?

I want to make sure it's important. Now, Jim, I mentioned something else if you hadn't already done this, uh, and that would be the possibility of taking a coil, uh, that you, you do a lot of the stuff, uh, I realized on your vehicle, you may already have one, or if for some reason you don't, uh, if you enjoy working with you with it yourself, it's not bad to have a coil anyway. And, and I think that's what you're trying to do is identify the cylinder so that you'll be able to just go in and replace that one coil and see if it solves the problem or switch it and see if it changes.

Is that right? Okay. Well, I can respond to that good point. Um, and then ask another question off of that. I do have some coils and I know we're bona fide and what I did was, and for those who are listening, Aaron, you know what I drive, but everybody else does. And it's an, uh, seven Ford Crown Victoria with a 4.6 in it. So there you go. Now you can look and see, we're talking about coil on plug technology where it's one screw, one electrical harness and a little bit of a curve and a turn.

You can pull them right out. So what I did was I took this one good coil coil and I placed it sequentially one through four and then five through eight. And I, each time I will put it in there, I would start the car and I went all the way through and the misfollows. So that means either I don't have a coil problem or the test coil is bad or I got more than one coil that's bad. So now I'm where I want to be able to say, well, let's try to zero in on what it is.

And that brings me to my next question. Will a scan tool that identifies these variations and misfires ever help you in determining whether it's a fuel related or a spark related problem? Does it work that detail? Well, in other ways, uh, it, that part of the scan tool will only tell you the higher count, uh, misfire count. So you'll know which cylinder is being affected, but it won't necessarily tell you, Hey, this is the call.

This is the, uh, or whatever it is. Uh, but other readings or other data that you would get out of a scan tool, uh, uh, a good scan tool would give you more. For instance, if it mentioned things that, uh, the fuel trim was higher than it should be, uh, that, that would lead you in different directions. So there's a lot of other things that would come out of the scan tool that could lead you into the direction of where the problem is.

Okay. And when looking for a scan tool, is a scan tool with a certain capability to carry and maintain the capabilities of the tool across all makes and models? Or is it not going to be so reliable? And I have to do some vehicle specific scan tool shopping. Well, if you get into real diagnostics and here's what I, here's what I mentioned to people on a, on a basic code reader, and don't get me wrong. A code reader is a good piece of equipment. It gives you a rough idea of where the problem was. But let's say that if you had a vehicle and you were just looking at the code, uh, unless you already have one, uh, laying around, like you had some coils already, or unless a part's very inexpensive and you say, well, I'm willing to take a chance. I'm very skeptical on someone just checking a code and saying, oh, my oxygen sensors bad and going and replacing an oxygen sensor, especially if it's an expensive one, because what the codes do is it would be like, if you were going on a trip, it would be letting you know what state you're going to. But if you, the high level diagnostic equipment that, that, um, that shops have really high level shops, they have one that will not only take you to the state, it'll take you to the street and it'll take you to the house, uh, or building that you're going to it pin points more into it. So it would depend on what level scan tool that you're talking about, uh, as, as that. Good. Okay.

Then I'll have to try to look at that a little more closely about how much it's worth to do that. But the, and then just the nature of the misfire. I've had cars where that just has a solid, steady miss. You can hear it. It's very rhythmic.

It's always there. It's the dump, dump, dump, dump, dump, dump. This car runs much of the time and idols much of the time. Perfectly every so often you'll hear that little puff out of the exhaust singly or a, uh, you'll have a, a few second stammering of the engine and then it strains out again.

So it comes and it goes, it comes and it goes, does that help point your mind in any particular direction? You did say you'd swap the, um, that you put another spark plug in there, right? Well, I haven't identified a cylinder. What I did was I moved a coil progressively through the array and I never had an occurrence where it went away. So I either had a bad test coil or more than one coil on the car bad at once. So that's where I'm looking to try to zero in on where my problem is.

But the fact that it's not always there, that it's an intermittent one, no matter what, no matter what coil I have in here or set the coils, does that help you tell me a little bit more about it? Let's take a, uh, let's take a quick break and then I may have an idea. Let's head back down to the car care studio with Aaron Clements and John Ryan Mooney. All right. I appreciate you waiting in the car for me. We are back getting back on the road. Uh, give us a call 800-224-9090. Uh, you can watch live on Facebook or listen on I heart, uh, send a question to Aaron at CC auto show.com. And we were talking with Jim and Jim, you are trying to make a decision on whether to get a more expensive scan tool that will give you the information that you're looking for, or, uh, try some other things that might get the, uh, get this, um, misfire out of there. Is that right?

All right. Looking for the scan tool to point me in the right direction or some expertise from someone like you, such as this intermittent misfire, it comes and goes. And it's one of the aspects about it is that it is more pronounced as you drive the vehicle from cold to operating temperature. It's still there at full operating temperature, but you'll notice it. And it'll, you're going up the road and lock up torque converter status during a warmup period. It'll actually give you that little kick in the seat.

Like someone kicked you from the back seat, the front seat, more noticeable during the warmup, but very intermittent here and there meant much of the time, no noticing of it while you're driving at all. But at idle, it stammers periodically. So yes, just start changing parts.

I need some direction. I believe I'd look at one or two way, these three options out. Uh, one option would be to look at scan tools and I would look at OTC scan tools and see what's available and find out if one is there that will give you to misfire data on the, on the vehicle.

The other option would be for you to just go ahead and replace all the spark plugs, because I can tell you that there is a possibility that you can have a plug having a problem. Uh, that would be, that's just, it would be my, my rough idea, a rough guess. Third option would be having diagnostic test run and having a company hook me, uh, uh, a much, much more higher level, a piece of equipment up. And I'll mention, and I realize that, um, dollars is not an indication of how well something does, but I'm just trying to give some type of, of an idea of, um, of the differences and some of the different things that are in there. Uh, for instance, some of those code readers, I feel like you can probably get a piece of equipment that may do what you're doing, want to do, um, rough idea in anywhere from the a hundred to $500 range, but you can get scan tools for as high as it for much, much higher. For instance, one that we use is more like $8,000 that we would hook up. Uh, but it, it has, um, a lot of other capabilities and that one has, what I would do is to research on OTC scan tools, see what's available. And I wouldn't necessarily have to stick right at OTC, but that would give you some ideas of what's available, weigh out the price versus saying, well, I might have a little time to stick these plugs in, uh, use it that way. Or the other option would be a pan dot regular diagnostics. Yep.

Got you. Yeah. Plugs are like 21,000 miles old. And I know they're a monster to do the right way because there's such a cavity, such a, they're almost like a missile silo. And if you don't get every little bit of sand that we're known for here in South Carolina, out of those ports, you introduce problems. So, and just real quick, OTC is a style of scan tool or a manufacturer.

It's a manufacturer scan tool. Okay, good. Well, good. You've given me plenty to work with. I'm glad I was able to join in on a self-help program and do it yourself. So great.

And let somebody else get in on here who needs some help to do it. Thanks, Aaron. Hey, Jim, you have a great day.

Okay. The number to call 7 0 6 8 6 3 5 800. We'll go over here and talk with Terry. Hey, Terry, welcome to the CNC auto show.

And what can I help you with? First time caller here. Um, I usually, I used to call, um, Sam's garage, but I guess they're not, uh, you know, any information about that? Did they stop? No, I don't.

I don't, I don't know any information. I do know that I've, I've had people mentioned, uh, mentioned that before that they, uh, that they used to enjoy listening to Sam's garage, but I'm not sure what happened. And I don't know if it's doing something, um, different, uh, or, uh, or on a different station or something like that, but, uh, I have heard a lot of good things about them though. Yeah. Yeah.

I used to listen to them a long, long time. So it's a pleasure meeting you and, uh, joining your, uh, radio talk show here. Well, thank you.

Thank you for calling too. Sure. Sure. Sure.

It sounds really, uh, really homely nice, uh, talk show here. Um, I have this complicated issue with, uh, 2014 Mitsubishi outlander. Um, uh, the gentleman before was talking about scan tools and I've been tinkering with my scan tool, uh, you know, launch, uh, the scan tool. And, um, I, uh, check, I get like a misfire, sorry, sorry. Um, I get a rough idle, right? I don't get any misfires at all, but I get a rough idle, um, at low RPMs. And sometime I get a miss, but it's not a misfire, but otherwise the it'll be clocked into the, um, the computer and I'll get the, how many misfires each cylinder got or whatever.

So it's not a, it's not a misfire. Um, now I was getting a P one, seven, one era, um, for quite a while right now. I have no errors on it, but, um, I cleared that up by, um, just, uh, um, replacing the air filter, replacing the, um, uh, mass airflow sensor, uh, the P CV valve. And, um, I also even replaced the, uh, the pump, the fuel pump. Um, so all these things, uh, I did, um, uh, and, uh, um, it still shuts off. Like, um, when I'm filling up, uh, the tank, um, when the tank is long and I fill it up and I go to start it, it gives me a hard start.

I got a, uh, push button started about, uh, maybe 10 times until it, uh, actually starts and I pump it a little bit and then it starts up, but it runs perfectly fine. But, uh, the mileage is up. The mileage is good. All right, Terry, I got a, I got a few, uh, ideas for you. Uh, would you, uh, we're gonna, uh, we're gonna take a quick break and I'll be right back and we'll share some ideas. As we navigate the COVID-19 crisis, O'Reilly Auto Parts is dedicated to serving you. We've been deemed an essential business, so our doors will stay open.

We encourage you to buy online, then pick up curbside together. We're committed to getting through this. It's time for more good stuff with Aaron Clements and John Ryan Mooney. We are back on the road.

Number to call 800-224-9090. Watch live on Facebook, listen on iHeart or send a question to aaronatccautoshow.com. But I'd much rather talk with you just like we are doing with Terry. Hey Terry, welcome back to the show. Oh, thank you so much. Just just curious before we, uh, before we talk about the car, what, uh, what area are you from?

Newburgh, New York. Fantastic. Well, we really do appreciate you calling in with us and appreciate you joining the show. Uh, I was going to mention on the, um, vehicle that you had, it sounded like to me that you were having more of a, uh, the misfire felt more like it was just an idle, but you're not really feeling it as you're going down the road as much. Is that right? Yeah, it runs perfect.

Uh, the gas mileage miles per gallon is up there, you know, uh, 28 miles per gallon on the highway. Uh, it's a 2.4 liter. Um, I did hook up the machine, the computer to it and the, um, the fuel trim, the short term fuel trim spikes up, uh, on idle to like 25%, which is too high. Um, and if I leave it to run, it'll shut off on its own after some time. So that gives a hiccup sometime. It gives a hiccup, but it's not a misfire, but otherwise the computer would show the misfire.

Right. Um, but, uh, if I rev it, um, uh, you know, 2,500 RPM, it, uh, it comes, brings down the fuel trim, uh, you know, to a single digit. Um, but the other thing too, I check for a vacuum leak. I sprayed, uh, you know, the lines and so forth, the vacuum hoses. Um, but you know, there's no, uh, vacuum leak that I could find the next step that I'm thinking about doing is changing the solenoid valve.

I actually ordered one, so I'm waiting on that. Okay. I believe there's a couple of things that I would do. Have you already cleaned the throttle body? Yes. Yes.

Yes. I took it to Valvoline. Also, what's a guy actually ordered a kit for that, uh, that does that with a nozzle and everything. What, uh, what, what, uh, I don't know what fluid to purchase to get to put in there.

Well, if you ordered the kit, there's a lot of them, uh, very similar. Now, uh, as a, we use a BG product, which is, it's, uh, basically a little injector that goes in and does very similar to what you're talking about. Puts a fine mist, uh, that goes in through the throttle body. It goes in, uh, cleans the inside of the intake, goes on top, cleans the top of the valves, top of the pistons, and then it cleans the O2 sensor. Uh, the vehicles build up carbon just like they did back in the seventies and eighties to where we used to have to drive them down the interstate at 90 miles an hour to try to blow all the carbon out. Uh, now you can clean it out more chemically with that because these chemicals go in and dissolve the carbon and then it burns out through the tailpipe.

A matter of fact, as you're doing it, you'll see a lot of smoke come out in the back. Um, you pick out the brand that works best for you. Barriman makes a very good product.

Uh, and there's several other ones, uh, if you'd like to do it yourself. Now, most, uh, many, many professional shops, uh, use something like BG or something like that. Uh, but I don't think they sell that, um, other than at repair shops. So you can, the Barriman, the Barriman shouldn't damage any component, right?

I actually bought two, uh, canisters of that, but I read something about it has acetone in it that wouldn't hurt anything. No, uh, they have, uh, they have done things now that it is very safe. Now there was a time where it would, it would go in and, uh, eat away to wax. Uh, this was other products before they started coming out with, uh, products that are, um, designed for more modern cars. But at one time it would go around and eat a wax coating off the inside of the injectors, uh, windings that caused some problems. Uh, but now the, the, uh, new versions, uh, are, uh, are very safe for all that and actually do a good job. I'm, uh, the, uh, Barriman is the Barriman intake valve and combustion chamber cleaner that they have. And it is for going in and getting that carbon out.

So that's one option that you could have, uh, the vehicles not do for a maintenance tuneup or anything like that. Is it? No, I had replaced the plugs, uh, probably about 10,000 miles away. Okay. Um, I would say I put in platinum plug.

All right. And the next step is just inspect that intake boot very closely. Uh, it's probably going to be very close to where the, um, mass airflow sensor is that you replace. Just make sure you don't see any cracking in that hose anywhere.

Cause sometimes they'll crack between the bellows and they're hard to see. Right. So, uh, I would, uh, I would recommend the induction service and inspecting that hose very closely. And then from there, if that don't, then I would make a decision on whether to get, uh, a, uh, diagnostics run on the vehicle by shop to be able to run that. Uh, but of course enjoy and doing stuff like that yourself.

I know many times people just enjoy the process of trying to track something down. So with that, uh, I would, um, I would go, I would do the induction service first, because that is by far the most likely thing. And then, uh, and then after that, you may get into a situation where you have to have some diagnostics runs to go for, cause I wouldn't want to tell you to replace something like an O2 sensor or a valve or something like that.

And the next thing you don't spend a lot of money in the vehicle still has the same problem. Yeah. I use the, um, the scan tool and, um, I pumped the brake booster like, uh, a couple of times and I tested out the O2 sensors where they swap values. Are you familiar with that?

Uh, yeah, yeah. That creates a vacuum. Yeah, I did do the intake cleaner, but I bought a kit also. So this way I don't have to, uh, I have four vehicles so I can maintain the other ones with the kit, but I did do a, I took it to the shop and I had the intake cleaned out in it. So, yeah, I think buying the intake cleaner and doing the things you're doing, uh, is, is very good seeking information. Uh, just wanna, uh, just wanna be careful not to put any expensive parts on and not be sure that that's it.

Cause that's what I try to keep people from doing is, is putting a lot of parts on a vehicle and then it not fixing it and then still having to get diagnostic tests run. But it don't sound, it sounds like everything you've done, actually, you've gotten pretty knowledgeable on here. It sounds like on some of the things that you've done, you guys, I learned a lot from you guys. Yeah.

Well you have, uh, you, you have done real good. Now you say you've already used that induction service on it and run that through it, right? I actually took it. Yeah. I actually took it to the shop, um, to, uh, Valvoline and they interestingly, interestingly enough, I thought they were going to use a Valvoline product. They didn't use a Valvoline product.

They use some other, uh, products and, uh, I wasn't familiar with it, so I don't know how clean it is. Okay. And on the part having to do with, um, uh, fuel treatment, you did already run some fuel treatment through the tank, right? Yeah. Yeah. I always, uh, did that, uh, you know, every 5,000, 6,000 miles, but, um, they did, uh, put in, uh, it was a three way, uh, treatment that they did. They put something, I added it in the crank case oil, um, additive in the fuel tank and also the, um, intake, uh, cleaning that they did with a nozzle. Yeah. Now that was good money spent. There wasn't anything wrong with that because that, uh, that more than if it didn't repair the problem is something that needs to be done from time to time anyway.

So that part is good. And, um, I would, there's a, there's always a chance that you could have an injector that may have a problem and there's, um, but it sounds, it does sound a little bit more like a vacuum leak that you have, even though you've run the propane test. Uh, but I would, um, I would consider, uh, having regular diagnostics run on the car, uh, as opposed to putting too many parts on there. Now, if you already got this other one ordered and you put it on yourself, but, uh, I just, um, I try to keep people from spending a lot of money that may not solve a problem.

So I would try this last part and then have some diagnostic tests run on there. Right. I appreciate it. Thank you so much. And I hope, uh, you, you guys, uh, enjoy your weekend with trust. Oh, Terry, you have a great weekend too. And it is so nice of you to call us. We appreciate that. I'll be listening. Fantastic. You have a great day. Bye bye. Okay.

The number to call is 7 0 6 8 6 3 5 800, or you can call it 800 2 2 4 9 0 9 0. Uh, we are answering automotive questions, given some, uh, some, uh, I items that you can do on your car as far as running, um, uh, running tests on it, or just doing different things that would make it last longer. And we going to be going to James as soon as we return. So we'll be right back after these messages. Welcome back to more of the CNC auto show with Aaron Clements and John Ryan Mooney.

Hey Mason, I don't have anything in my earbud. Welcome back to the CNC auto show. And we are here to answer your automotive questions and give us call 7 0 6 8 6 3 5 800. Uh, we will go over to James. James, welcome to the CNC auto show.

Hello? James, I'm going to put you back on hold just a second. We've got a little bit of a technical issue. Hold on. Okay. We're good.

Okay. We are back with you with the CNC auto show, ran into a little small technical issue. We're here with James.

James, welcome to the CNC auto show. Um, is this me? Yes, sir. That is you. And we are ready to talk. Well, great.

Thanks for taking my call. My name's, uh, James, by the way, G E N E that threw me off with the title, but I get, I get that a lot, but, uh, anywho, I have a 1995 half lines or four wheel drive. Um, it's a great car.

A friend of mine gave it to me. I put a starter on it, uh, no problem, tuned it up, but brand new tires on it in the front, or actually all of the windows quit working. So I think I replaced the accessory relay and that fixed the problem. And then about six weeks later, I got up one morning, went out, pranked it up, went to lower the windows because it was a little warm.

Um, and they didn't work. Uh, and then I went to turn on the air conditioning and it didn't work. Um, so I drove it over to a friend of mine who's a retired Mercedes Porsche mechanic and went in, talked to him, came back out and wouldn't cry. And I replaced the fusible links, the, uh, ignition switch, and I believe I replaced an ignition relay too.

Um, and none of that raised the problem. I'm not getting any dash lights, um, and the windows don't cool down. So I'm thinking it may be a ground or I pulled the passenger seat out, the front passenger seat out, um, the computer's getting power, but, um, I don't have the module or whatever to read it. The diagnostic tool. Okay.

So that's kind of where I stood now. It's been said for a while, but, um, like I said, I replaced the fusible links and the ignition switch, but it's not getting any juice to the dash light. Um, nothing when you turn it over, you know, try to turn it over.

Nothing's going for the starter. Uh huh. Okay. Um, and so there, so you have a no spin condition, a vehicle won't spin over and the way it happened ordinarily I'd say, well, you could have a starter issue even though it's been replaced, but the way that it happened and you having these other electrical issues before it did this makes me, uh, makes me think that you have other electrical problems there. Now, did you, um, Nate, have you tested the voltage in the battery, which I'm sure you've probably done that so far. Right.

Exactly. A relatively new interstate battery. And I, you know, just make sure I took it off and put it on a battery charger for a day and, uh, and I think I even switched batteries.

Okay. Now does that model, did you have some, are there some little, uh, square fuses up there near the battery cable on that vehicle? I was trying to remember the year models that, uh, had that your models that didn't have it, but it'll be a little, um, square, square looking boxes that look like clear fuses up near the battery itself.

They are not. And the fusible length, I believe there were two of them. They were underneath like the battery tray kind of down in that area. So you had to take the battery out to get to those, um, and, you know, replace both of those, still nothing. And, uh, so my friend Joe, he said, you know, it could be the ignition switch and it was like 35 bucks.

So I went ahead and replaced that. What needs to happen? This needs to have a systematic way of looking at it. Uh, and some of the things that I'm going to mention may require a wiring diagram definitely would require a good volt meter. And then you make a decision on if it's stuff that you feel like you would want to do. Uh, what needs to happen is of course, to start with the voltage needs to be tested at a battery. It should be 12.6 volts. And then from there, we need to find out if power is going over to the fuse, uh, power distribution box or basically fuse box is power going into that. And then taking the, uh, either a test light or a volt meter and checking each one of the fuses to see if they got power on each side, if, if, and basically what we're doing, all of these things I'm mentioning is we tracing the power back to where it goes. And of course you'll go from there. You'll find out, does it have power at the ignition switch?

Uh, and all of these things. Oh, it does have the test light on the ignition switch. And then, you know, I've even put it on the other side, you know, on the wires coming out of the ignition switch when you're clanking it and it has voltage there too. So, you know, that led me to believe that it wasn't the ignition switch. I'm thinking of something between the ignition switch and wherever I go.

I actually ordered a wiring diagram off of eBay. They were kind of hard to get by. And the one that I got was, I mean, you need a microscope to read it. Um, and it's, uh, you know, it's not that clear. I'm sick.

I'm a sick people. Visions are not that great. The mags, um, you know, it's, it's really hard to kind of trace things. Yeah. Uh, you are going to need a wiring wiring diagram. Now do you, do you have a volt meter and have you, do you work with a volt meter? I do.

I have a, I have a, I have a nice fluke. Okay, good. Good.

Okay. Well, your next step is going to be to get a wiring diagram that you can read. You're going to have to lay that out and you're going to have to follow that. First make sure the power is going to the ignition switch. And then when you turn the key and make sure it comes out of the ignition switch and then you want to follow it, it'll probably go to some relays, uh, from there. And you may, it could be anything from a broken wire that you may have, uh, coming from the ignition switch in someplace. Uh, or there could be a junction box to where a number of wires come together and it's losing a connection there, but it's just, you're going to need a wiring diagram to be, to go to your next step. You've did good going to the steps you've got so far, but that is going to be, what's going to be needed next.

Okay. Um, do you think it could be a ground with it? You know, um, it is possible, but with that many, uh, a lot of those items may share one point in time with, uh, receiving power. But I believe a lot of those items that were messing, uh, that were, uh, acting up before it went dead. A lot of those have different grounds.

So you're not going to have a lot of grounds going bad at one time. I'm more inclined to think that it's a power issue, but that definitely is not the rule out of ground. Now, the other thing that I would run, if you ever run a voltage drop test, I'm all I'm all okay.

We out of time. So I won't be able to tell you, but if you would look up on the internet on how to run and it's easy test with a volt meter, if you read a volt meter, you'll be able to run it, uh, a voltage drop test. And you can run that on the power side and the ground side.

And there's a high probability. That's going to tell you where your problem was. Okay. All right. Thanks so much. Oh, thank you. Okay. The, uh, we, the, the time clock is on E we'll be back on the road in no time. I'm Aaron Clements and I sure enjoyed every minute of you riding with us with the CNC auto show.

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