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CBS Sunday Morning / Jane Pauley
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August 18, 2019 10:30 am

CBS Sunday Morning

CBS Sunday Morning / Jane Pauley

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August 18, 2019 10:30 am

Jane Pauley hosts a special broadcast of "Sunday Morning" from Tuscany, sharing stories on all things Italian – art and design, traditions and culture, fashion, food, music, entertainment and history. (This show was originally broadcast May 19, 2019.)

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Dream, design, and build with Tough Shed. Good morning, or should I say, buongiorno. I'm Jane Pauley, and this is a special edition of Sunday Morning. We're in Florence, the cradle of the Renaissance. Among the landmarks behind me, the great cathedral known as the Duomo, and the Pas de Vecchio, the bridge that dates back to the 1300s. Rich in history and art and culture, Florence is our home base this morning.

For some Americans, Italy is more than a country on a map. It's a dream. A dream worth pulling up stakes for.

Mark Phillips has their story. All right, ladies. Phil Ferretti's great grandfather left Italy for America, but now Phil is back. Come and get it. Ding, ding. Life's too short not to be coming to time.

Come on. Marcie and Leslie's grandfather left Italy more than a hundred years ago, and now they might come back. Now we have some place that we also belong. If you've got any Italian blood in you, this may already be yours.

A new life in the old country ahead on Sunday morning. Among the folks from other lands who've made Italy their home, the English singer-songwriter Sting. He and his wife Trudy welcome Alina Cho to their villa. A little song, a little food, a lot of wine. Life at their Tuscan villa is one of many dreams that have come true for Sting and his wife Trudy Styler. My biggest dream was to be an actress, a rock star.

We'll pay them a visit ahead this Sunday morning. Not only is Florence the cradle of the renaissance, it's also the birthplace of the creator of Pinocchio. Lee Cowan has his story. The Disney version of Pinocchio is a classic, but it was based on an Italian novel written more than a half century before. This is really the beginning of the myth of Pinocchio. A myth that's a little darker than you might know. The boy with a tail as long as his nose.

Later on Sunday morning. Among the greatest treasures of Italy, it's food. Seth Doan takes us on a tasting tour. Every corner of Italy it seems has its own specialty. In the northwest, hazelnuts from these trees inspired the spread Nutella. This port city in the northeast is a hub for importing coffee that helped Italy and the world develop a taste for espresso.

And here in the farmlands of the south, these buffalo make the milk for mozzarella. All of that later on Sunday morning. Rita Braver takes us under the Tuscan sun with author Francis Mays. Tracy Smith visits the town fashions Brunello Cucinelli put on the map. Martha Teichner shows how the art of Florence past is still shaping its future. And more all coming up when our Sunday morning podcast continues.

We're inside the magnificent Duomo, the great cathedral of Florence, completed in 1436, a century and a half after it was begun. Looking around this beautiful city, it's easy to see why Americans fall in love with the idea of living in Italy. Our Mark Phillips has met some who've done it. For all the obvious reasons, people who come to Italy often find it a difficult place to leave.

Hopefully the records. Now some are finding they don't have to go home. They already are home. Marcy Blackstone and Leslie Fornes from Oregon, granddaughters of an Italian immigrant. Sandy and Phil Ferretti from Long Island via Florida, who run the Rolle Ortalia B&B in Tuscany. For a boy and a girl from Long Island, Phil is the great grandson of an Italian immigrant. Who would have thought we would end it up in Tuscany? They've all discovered a connection to Italy that's deeper than they thought.

Oh, I'm standing right on one. Marcy and Leslie and Phil may actually be Italian. All right ladies. Because of what's known as the law of blood. A lot of people love Italy. There's lots of reason to. Not everybody wants to become an Italian.

Why did you decide? Life's too short not to become an Italian. Come on. I think that was on a t-shirt. Everybody comes from somewhere. Everybody has roots.

I guess I'm coming back. To me, doing mozzarella. Perhaps it was written on a t-shirt, but more importantly it's also written in old Italian laws. Phil has found that unlike U.S. citizenship, which is based on where you were born, in Italy it's based on whether your parents had Italian blood in their veins.

Yes. Blood that can run down through the generations, all the way from Phil's immigrant ancestor to him. So after years of coming to Italy on vacation, Phil and Sandy have sold up in America and settled down here. We just felt so comfortable here. We love the culture.

We love the food. Starting from your great-grandfather, Vincenzo. In setting up business here, Phil's lawyer, Michele Capecchi, informed him he was probably a lucky winner in the great Italian citizenship lottery. The first Italian citizenship lottery. The first member of your family that was born in Italy, when he moved to a foreign country, he kept on passing the Italian citizenship, the Italian blood to the children, to the grandchildren, and so on. So you're telling me that whether they know it or not, there are potentially millions of Americans who, because of the blood that flows in their veins, are still Italians.

Yes. What determines the transfer of the Italian citizenship is the blood. America at the turn of the century. More than 4 million Italians emigrated to the US between 1880 and 1920. Today, more than 17 million Americans claim Italian ancestry.

The law of blood means many of them are still technically Italian as well. They come to me and say, we feel very connected to this country. We love the culture. We love the language. We love, we love, we love. Can you do it on your own or do you have to hire a lawyer to do it?

You can absolutely do it by yourself. Which is why Marcy and Leslie, the Oregon sisters, Leslie, have come to find their family's records in a small town in southern Italy. Their grandfather, Felice, left for the US around 1900, changing the family name to Oliver.

The old name still takes some getting used to. And how did they pronounce Oliverio? Oliverio. Oliverio. Oliverio.

Massimo at the records office spends a lot of time digging up documents of residents who left for America a century or so ago. When we heard that we could do it, we got excited. The dual citizenship would be a great benefit for ourselves and our children. What's the benefit in it for you? My benefit is I have some place to go if I want to. An escape clause.

Exactly. There seems to be an uptick in demand lately. Are there things that are happening at home now that make the idea of looking for the field more attractive to you?

Yes, there are. Our country's divided and it is nice to have a place that potentially we could go to sometime. Laura Lee Watson reclaimed her own citizenship and now runs a business here guiding Italian-Americans along their own heritage trails, often meeting long-lost distant cousins along the way. Citizenship not only connects them to Italy, an EU passport means they can live anywhere in Europe.

So what size is this movement now? I think it's becoming an industry because if you take a look at the Italian consulates, if you look at San Francisco consulate or Los Angeles, there's a 10-year wait list just to get an appointment to submit your application. Come and get it. The wheel of history is turning, greased with irony. Well, I guess that's full circle. Your great-great-grand parent, you know, comes to America for a better life. Your great-great-grandchild goes back to Italy for a better life. For a better life. Who would have bet on that?

Nobody. I don't think I could have written it. It's a story that's still being written. And it's at the Galleria del Accademia by Michelangelo's masterpiece, his statue of David, where we begin our look at Florence, past and present. Founded during Roman times, Florence has for centuries been a hub of commerce. At its center, the Duomo Cathedral and the Padavecchio Bridge, built in the 14th century. The sole bridge to survive Hitler's bombing during World War II. The Padavecchio was the only bridge remaining across the Arno when the Germans completed their demolition.

It's said it was deemed too beautiful to destroy. The poet Dante of Inferno fame was born in Florence in 1265. And then, starting in the 1400s, under the Medici family, Florence gave rise to the Renaissance.

Today, their Pity Palace features 30,000 works, 11 alone from Raphael. Leonardo da Vinci got his start in Florence, as did Michelangelo, whose sculptures adorn the Medici family chapel. He's buried at the Santa Croce Basilica, as is the writer Machiavelli, and Galileo, the astronomer. Another Florentine great, explorer, Amerigo Vespucci.

He gave his name to the Americas. An unprecedented flood wreaks havoc on this world center of Renaissance art. In 1966, a flood swept through the city, killing dozens and endangering monuments and artworks.

A plaque marks the high-water mark, some 16 feet above street level. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Florence attracts at least 10 million tourists a year. And on this Sunday morning, us. Florence may be the perfect spot to sample the delicious food and drink of Italy, like here in the city's central market, where you can find just about any delicacy.

Seth Doan will offer us a sampling. To begin, say cheese. Better come early to snag a number before this specialty sells out. After all, this is fresh buffalo mozzarella. It's packed up in styrofoam bags, and it's not so contained. Are they fighting over the mozzarella?

They're fighting over the number. Mario Spattuzzi came all the way from Milan. You can buy this in the grocery store. Indeed, yes. Why come here? Because the taste of this one is, it's simply amazing. So this is made of the buffalo that you see over there in the lab that is just behind the shop. This is the organic cheesemaker, or cassificio, Tenuto Venulo, in southern Italy, not far from the ancient ruins of Pestu.

Maybe we'll get to Paestum, which is like the temple, but like this was the first stop. Buffalo is richer, of course. Nicola Palmieri runs his family farm, where the buffalo are, well, pampered. If we can give the buffalo a little bit of a taste, it's going to be a little bit of a taste. If we can give them the possibility to live in the best way, we must.

And the technology gives us this opportunity. Soothing music is piped into the pens, and when the buffalo feel they're ready, they line up on their own to be milked by machines. They can also take a shower or get a massage. They have to be relaxed to give the milk. This is one of the secrets that we use to make a good mozzarella. After the milk is collected, curds are produced, and in just about five hours, they are formed into balls with the special technique that gave mozzarella its name. Mozzarella means to cut. Yes. And that's what we're watching right here.

The chance to see the process draws locals and tourists alike, including Patricia Oaks from Louisiana. How different is the mozzarella you've tried here in southern Italy from what you've had in the U.S.? Oh my gosh. It is like it melts in your mouth.

Buffalo milk has a higher percentage of fat than milk from cows, so it's richer and sweeter. Domenico Calderone came from Bolivia to learn this rather involved art at the consortium for the protection of buffalo mozzarella in Campania. Did you realize how difficult it was going to be to make mozzarella? No, no. I was thinking this would have been more of a one-month process. But it took more than six. It looks easy.

Trust me, it's not. Complicated to master, but whether featured on a pizza or eaten plain, it's simply delicious. Who doesn't know the story of the marionette who became a boy? The creator of Pinocchio was born right here in Florence. Lee Cowan takes us to the nearby town where it all began. Rome has the Colosseum. Venice, its canals.

And then there's Collodi. This tiny Tuscan town lays claim to something just as famous. Pinocchio. Here the boy puppet is a giant, a patron saint.

His smiling face on as many tourist trinkets as the pope himself. The Pinocchio most of us know is the Walt Disney version. Pinocchio, why didn't you go to school? School? Where the mischievous marionette famously fibs his way out of trouble. I was going to school till I met somebody.

Met somebody? Yeah, two big monsters with big green eyes. But the film is a much lighter version than what its Italian author had in mind. His name was Carlo Lorenzini, a journalist and an author who spent his boyhood in this town, eventually taking the town's name, Collodi, as his pen name. At the National Carlo Collodi Foundation, there are hundreds of translations of Pinocchio on display. This is the very first appearance of Pinocchio. Roberto Vizzani is the librarian here. It was published on July 7, 1881, the story of a puppet. Much like the works of Charles Dickens, Collodi's Pinocchio was serialized in installments for a magazine. But that version has our poor misguided puppet paying for his misdeeds with his life hanged from a tree.

A scene inspired by this giant oak, as legend has it, not far from Collodi's childhood home. So how did he revive him? He revived him because there was a pressure by the young readers. The kids didn't want him to die.

Yeah, of course. So Pinocchio got a second chance and thanks to his good heart turns from naughty to nice, finally becoming a real boy. I think both children and adult people can appreciate this coming-of-age story. Collodi's Pinocchio Park is a place as much carnival as Sculpture Garden, where noses sprout from tree trunks and puppet shows still delight. In Florence, about an hour away, you'll find Pinocchio lurking in doorways and on window ledges. To Pinocchio. Pinocchio. There's a statue of Pinocchio outside Fabrizio Gori's restaurant. All the portraits are mine. That's yours?

Yes. A true renaissance man, he's also an artist who helped illustrate a modern edition of Pinocchio, the one that's most popular in the world. An artist who helped illustrate a modern edition of Pinocchio that's currently in the collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York. So why do you love it so much? Because it's the history, it's also the history of me. It's the history of you. There is perhaps a little bit of Pinocchio in all of us and the best of us don't grow out of it.

Do people call you Geppetto in real life? Francesco Bartolucci has been carving Pinocchios since he was a boy. His stores sell the wooden toys all over the world.

Each is hand-carved, created, not just assembled. That's an important distinction, he says, when the lights go off. They are almost all your kids. They are real boys to you in some ways. Yes, many times when I'm in my workshop and I'm in the kitchen, I have to when I'm in my workshop at night working alone, I have the feeling that they move, that they are telling me something. It is a very strange feeling, me and my Pinocchio.

Carlo Collodi died before his Pinocchio became a household name. Looking back, he was a Geppetto with words instead of wood, whose beloved puppet is still reminding us just what it means to be human. The Uffizi Gallery is truly an art museum like few others, bursting with treasures dating from ancient times to the present. Seven years before the Declaration of Independence, it was the first museum in the world to open their doors to everyone who wanted to come. Eike Schmitt is the director of the Uffizi and our personal guide through its many treasure-filled rooms. Well, this is one of the rooms not to be missed by anyone, even if you're on a super tight schedule, the Leonardo da Vinci room.

Rather than trying to take everything in, Schmitt suggests focusing on the adoration of the Magi, never finished, still showing an artist at work. Next up, a room jointly honoring Raphael and Michelangelo. And the absolute masterpiece in this room is the Doni Tondo by Michelangelo. This is something that Michelangelo painted just before he went to Rome to paint the Sistine ceiling. So if you see this, you might not even need to go to Rome. On to the Botticelli room and the birth of Venus. Here is something everyone has already seen somewhere and still it's one of the most mysterious paintings ever painted. A treasure at every turn. It is certainly one of the greatest concentrations of works of art that exists.

In Florence, the tradition of art and craftsmanship continues to this day. Here's our Martha Teichner. We're here next to the Leonardo da Vinci Warper.

You heard right. Leonardo da Vinci designed this machine for winding thread. There's a copy of his sketch. He designed it in the end of the 1400s and then this was made in the 1600s. This very machine still in use 400 years later. Made directly from this machine you have you know these beautiful braids. Filippo Ricci is CEO of silk maker Antico Setaficchio Fiorentino. We actually know now entering into the historical part if I can say that.

Okay. It's the 1700 looms. In 1786, the city's most prominent families handed over their personal looms so Florence could go into business producing the luxury fabrics its aristocrats wore. This is the Hermesino. It's a special kind of a Renaissance tafta. It changes the color according to how the light hits the fabric.

At least you have green and red combined. This goes back to the Renaissance. Yes and he has a special sound.

Yeah I love the sound. A city of businessmen bankers. Florence was always into conspicuous consumption. Just look at its art and the gold jewelry sold on the Pontavecchio. Originally it was a place for selling fish and meat.

Elaine Ruffalo is an American Renaissance art historian who lives in Florence. When the Medici became grand dukes of the city they don't like the smell of all that fish and meat. And so they changed the function of the bridge to the place for the goldsmiths and it has had gold shops on this bridge since 1565. As bankers and then powerful political figures the Medici were famous patrons of the arts and of artisans. For Florentine artisans today the past is the present.

She said talking makes the gold fly. Restorer Stefania Martelli uses the same techniques, the same tools, the same gold as guilders working for the Medici. Welcome to the chapel of the princes.

The Florence tourists visit is one big display of Medici taste. This is all inlaid stone. Beautiful inlaid stone. It's called Pietra Dura. The words mean hard stone.

You could be fooled into thinking this is paint but it's not. Explain what we have here. It's a stone world.

Elio de Philippis heads Pitti Mozayici. These are made today by us. A workshop creating Pietra Dura almost exactly the way it was done during the Renaissance. This is going to be this part here. The artistry is in searching thousands of stones. This is the lapis lazuli. For the perfect color and shading then cutting and fitting the pieces together like an intricate puzzle.

The subtlety and the the variation of color. Yeah. It's slow painstaking work. Elio's sons are learning how to do it but when I started we had several workshops in town I would say between 25 and 30. And now only three left. The good news there are still nearly 500 traditional artisan workshops in Florence.

The bad news that's 75 fewer than 10 years ago. It's a very very old technique. Maria Giannini is the sixth generation in her family to make marbleized paper.

Once used in bookbinding now this is more of a beautiful novelty for tourists. But she hangs in there making one sheet at a time because for her for so many of the artisans of Florence it's about passion. It's very important. This is satisfaction and it's also to give people a piece of my art and my history as well. So it is important because I leave something. That is amazing.

Yes yes it's magic. We've taken a detour to Villa Laccorte home to Prince and Princess Corsini for 21 generations one of Italy's most famous families. Their villa sits atop a hillside in the Tuscan wine region of Chianti on land the Corsini family has owned since the 1300s. Merchants and bankers for more than 600 years the family built much of their wealth during the renaissance a fortune largely devoted to preserving art and architecture. Royalty has been in the family since 1730 when Lorenzo Corsini became Pope Clement the 12th at age 78.

What may be his best known accomplishment the Trevi Fountain in Rome. Today Villa Laccorte is home to a new generation of Corsinis who run the winery and lay claim to a remarkable archive dating back a thousand years. We're quite literally under the Tuscan sun which you may recall is the title of the best-selling book by Francis Mays and all these years later that's exactly where Rita Braver found her. It's one of the most famous villas in Tuscany attracting a constant stream of tourists. So what is the house called?

Brahmasole, Bramare to yearn for and Sole the sun. Yes it is that house from the book the place that American Francis Mays felt an irresistible urge to buy back in 1990. And it was a mess. It was it was derelict this whole front garden was practically in the road. Mays transformed the 300 year old property outside and in even breaking through walls. And when we started opening that of course we thought the house was falling down. That was one scene in the movie that was really accurate.

Under the Tuscan sun was the movie that was based on her memoir about restoring the house. The book spent more than two and a half years on the bestseller list much to the shock of this one-time professor and poet. I expected it to sell like one of my books of poetry which means not at all. Why do you think it touched the cord with so many people?

Well I've wondered that a lot. It's a woman taking a risk and doing something out of the plan and out of expectations even her own expectations. And then of course as a writer I like to think it's the writing.

The film does depart from the book with Lovelorn Francis played by Diane Lane. You have beautiful eyes Francesca. Taking up with an Italian lover.

What's your next project? Which doesn't faze her long-time real-life partner at all. The book is about two happy people who come to Tuscany and become happier.

There is no movie at all there. But Ed Mays like his wife a poet and professor was here from the beginning. Many relationships would never have survived the redoing of a house like this. What was the key?

I think it's love, respect, sense of adventure. And this is a gorgeous Renaissance church. Those adventures are featured in the seven other books Mays has now written about Italy. Oh there's a new book too. Including her latest See You in the Piazza. Anytime you leave a party at night the last thing someone says is see you in the piazza. It focuses on off the beaten track town. Oh buongiorno, buongiorno ciao.

Like her adopted village of Cortona where she seems to know everyone. You just put beautiful Daniele prosciutto. The new book is sprinkled with recipes. Semolina gnocchi. As the couple loves to cook. There's our eggplant involtini we made inside. This you know it's spring in Tuscany when you see favo with pecorino. Well that is so good.

And after all these years, buona sera, Frances May still marvels at the life she now leads. Hello, hello. You never expected to have what happened happen did you? No, no. Isn't that great though not to be able to expect?

Because if you can expect it and predict it it's not as much fun. That's true. It seems like almost everything in Florence is a cut above and we mean almost everything. Just off Piazza Santa Maria Novella where a church of the same name has stood since 1360, is it's another sort of cathedral. It may not look like it from the outside but inside it's truly a thing of beauty.

It's just amazing. It looks like it's part of the church. They're you know beautiful statues and murals and all the beautiful smells. Just fabulous beauty. Santa Maria Novella pharmacy is thought to be the oldest apothecary in the world.

Oh very good one. Pharmacy director Gianluca Foa says it dates back to 1221 when its Dominican monks began experimenting with alchemy. A century later they came up with a product made from roses they hoped would defeat the great plague which killed an estimated 60 percent of Europe. They thought that the seal in these petals they could create an antiseptic useful for to to fight the plague but of course it didn't work. But it did work as a beauty product rose water which has been used as a face tonic for the past 800 years. The pharmacy's tradition of innovation didn't stop there. The monks were the first to use alcohol and perfume. They created a liqueur to help numb pain in childbirth and aromatic vinegar.

This is used to prevent the fainting so it's very strong but oh. Today Santa Maria Novella's garden produces plants and flowers used in products still made by hand. Products made like they were made 200 years ago 300 years ago.

More than 2,000 people a day come to breathe it all in. And if customers need a drink after shopping well they don't need to look far. It's very nice. Santa Maria Novella's ancient liqueurs are now used at upscale cocktail spots like Florence's Hotel Savoy.

They are amazing for cocktails because they they are elisir. Elisir it means something really pure. History and hipness coexist in a city that defines beauty. As we've seen the Patavecchio is the historic bridge where gold is always in fashion. And fashion Tracy Smith tells us is the life's work of modern designer Brunello Cucinelli.

In a country where thousands of little towns like this are being deserted by younger people moving to the cities the village of Solomeo is thriving and it's mainly the work of one extraordinary man. His name is Brunello Cucinelli and if you haven't heard of him maybe it's because you're not shopping in well the right places. Cucinelli makes luxury wear the finest fabrics all very carefully made into clothing bound for the best stores and the brightest lights.

Ryan Reynolds has been known to show up wearing Cucinelli same for Jennifer Lawrence and Leonardo DiCaprio. A Cucinelli cashmere sweater can cost two thousand dollars a suit closer to five and this was all started by a man with a dream and not much else. Brunello Cucinelli was born near Solomeo in 1953 and grew up in a house with no plumbing and no electricity. As a young man inspired by the woman he would eventually marry he hit on the idea of making knitwear. How much money did you have when you started this business?

Well we were farmers so I didn't have even a dollar in my pocket. So with a 500 loan he made a handful of cashmere sweaters and now Brunello Cucinelli is an international 500 million dollar a year company but it's not just about money through this company Brunello Cucinelli changed his life and the lives of nearly everyone around him. He started with Solomeo's medieval church which was practically a ruin and had it restored to its original glory and then he built this 240 seat theater in the heart of the village.

He tore down old warehouses that cluttered the valley and let trees grow there instead. The Cucinelli factory is beautiful too. An entire wall is mostly windows giving people the feeling that they're working outside and as you might expect Cucinelli also pays his workers more than they'd get just about anywhere else but forget about overtime. It's forbidden to work after 5 30 p.m. The boss believes that working too many hours will, you know, working too many hours will in his words steal your soul. A balance between mind soul and work. So at precisely 1 p.m every day the very stylish Cucinelli workforce heads to the company dining hall en masse for a mandatory and subsidized 90 minute lunch.

So why does Cucinelli pamper his workers? Part of it comes from watching his own father drag himself home each day from his backbreaking job at a cement factory. You saw the tears in his eyes.

Yes I was 15 16. It was really impactful to see my father humiliated. That's where I got my inspiration and that's where my big project of life came from. The moral and economic dignity of the human being. Cucinelli calls all of this a humanistic enterprise in the world of industry and apparently it works.

The company is growing and Cucinelli himself is a billionaire. You were on the the Forbes list as being a billionaire and people showed this to your father. And what did your father say? He pointed at me.

He said the only thing that matters to me is for you to be a good man. So this was the dream of my life. And looking at Salomeo, it seems dad got his wish. Nutella gelato alone may be worth a trip to Florence. Seth Doan tells us Nutella is yet one more Italian contribution to the good life. Hazelnuts sustain family businesses and star in recipes in the Piedmont region of Italy where the rolling hills are covered with hazelnut trees.

The climate here is perfect for them, Emanuele Canaparo told us. These are your trees? He has about 12,000 which produce the nuts they roast for their own chocolate hazelnut spread, a tradition here. Still he says it's a much more famous version that paved the way for their success. Nutella is a product that made hazelnuts famous throughout the world.

He said. In the 1940s, Italian pastry maker Pietro Ferrero created Nutella. Nutella ice cream. Which is now so popular it sells in 160 countries.

Fans gush about it. It's about the only thing on the menu in some cafes. What is it that makes Nutella almost, well, addictive? The company that makes this stuff Ferrero wants to keep it a secret.

They would not let us inside to shoot the process and they declined a request for an interview. They've had some bad press regarding the palm oil in their product and recently hazelnut suppliers in Turkey. At Canaparo's Nachola Delit, they pack more hazelnuts into their spread, which means less sugar and no palm oil. What percentage of hazelnuts is actually in there?

It's 60% and Nutella is around 13, I believe. In the nearby tiny town of Cortimiglia, the hazelnut is celebrated and so is Giuseppe Canobio. Adetto il rei delle Nachola, the king of hazelnuts. And this is the house of hazelnuts. Here, several generations of the Canobio family work together, almost in awe of the nut. When I crack open hazelnuts, Giuseppe said, what goodness, the aroma. They showed us how to make their special hazelnut torte, which uses their own artisanal spread, more than half of it comprised of pure hazelnuts. Hats off to Nutella, Giuseppe said.

They taught this could become a job, daughter Paola added. The rich chocolate hazelnut creation has been a staple for generations of local cooks, who are delighted to share this precious nut with the rest of the world. Buonissimo. Grazie. It's a Sunday morning in Florence.

Here again is Jane Pauley. Not far from here in the Tuscan countryside is the home of an English singer who needs no introduction. Alina Cho takes us to visit Sting and his wife Trudy. Il Pelagio is the very definition of a Tuscan estate.

It's a 400-year-old villa, about an hour south of Florence. But listen closely. You might hear a rather well-known musician rehearsing.

It's Sting. He owns the place, along with his wife, Trudy Styler. So what do you love about this place? Let me count the ways.

Just about everything. For Sting and Styler, it's a summer house for their growing family. But you too can stay here. It's available to rent for weddings and birthdays. Even the honeybees are living the high life. You can't tell a bee where to go, but if you give it really delicious food. And a nice house.

Yeah, always good. We have a chestnut grove, and that makes chestnut honey. It's a long way from Sting and Styler's roots. We're working class.

Yeah. We certainly never had a house like this. Sting was born Gordon Sumner in a shipbuilding town in northern England. Styler grew up in central England. Everyone likes to think Trudy changed her life, and she did. However, there was one woman who was also important in your life, and that's the queen mum. Tell me that story. I lived right next door to a shipyard, and I would think as a kid, is this what I will do when I grow up? The yard was a terrifying place.

Noisy, dangerous, so I had this other fantasy that I would be a musician. One day royalty arrived to christen a ship. June 27th, 1961. The splendid day for the launching. And Sting got a glimpse of the outside world. Down the street comes the queen mother in a big Rolls-Royce with some motorcycle outriders, and everybody's waving their flags.

You thought what? She caught my eye. Well, I caught her eye. She did that one wave that they do, and she just kept looking at me.

I must have been waving my flag really vigorously, but I thought this is the first time I've ever been seen. As for Styler, her father expected her to become a typist, but her dream was to be on stage. This came as a big shock to my family because nobody in our street were actors. Most of the people in the street worked at the Ford Motor Factory, or they worked at the local brush works where they made paint brushes. Her father gave her an ultimatum.

Get a job or leave the house. So at age 18, young Trudy lit out for the birthplace of William Shakespeare. Packed my tiny little suitcase, and headed towards where else? Stratford-upon-Avon, because if you're going to be an actor, let's go big. The gamble paid off. By age 25, she landed leading roles with the Royal Shakespeare Company.

Sting was equally ambitious. When you said that a woman changed my life, I didn't think you were going to mention the queen mother. I thought you were going to mention Roxanne. You don't have to put on the red light. Those days are over.

You don't have to sell your body to the night. Roxanne was the first of a series of worldwide hits. Sting was married with two kids when he met Trudy Styler. It started to dawn on us a year into getting to know each other that we sparked in a way that friends don't spark. Let's just say. Let's just say. They married 27 years ago, and after a long search, found Il Pelagio.

It was very dilapidated, and we bought it for a song, maybe two songs. Once the house was in order, they turned to the fields. I'm a farmer's daughter. I love the idea of having a lot of land around that could be cultivated in some way. With the help of experts and locals, some who had worked the land for generations, they brought back the olive groves, the vegetable gardens, and the vineyards. So this is the result of years and years and years of TLC.

Yeah. And now you see the fruits of your labor, literally. It's a good feeling, and the wines get better. The wine's names are straight out of the Sting repertoire. A very sexy name. Sexy wine. There's wine, but there's also work. Styler is a movie producer, director, and still acts. I love that.

It's men first in this country. Sting has recorded four albums at the villa. His latest record came out this summer, and he's now on a world tour. At age 67, slowing down his tempo is not an option. You're a grandfather. I'm a grandfather.

Seven times. Serial grandparent. I never anticipated it, stupidly, even though I got six children. Never thought they would have children.

That's how dumb I am. This summer, the family will gather here once again. Calamari. Caprese. James the butler will show off the spread.

Romaine lettuce and potato skins. And the 400-year-old spirit of Il Pelagio will live on. We're not really the owners. We're here to make it work and make it better. Are you proud of what you've built here?

Hugely proud. And the locals come and say, you brought this place back to life. Grazie. I don't know about you, but I could use some caffeine. How about a quick espresso with Seth Doan? The vibrant southern Italian city of Naples seems to run on espresso. It's a very exciting city. Is any of that due to its love for coffee?

Yes. This is packed in here. It's like a temple. And coffee here is like a religion. Cafe Gambrinos was established before Italy was, back when Naples was a kingdom. Talking about coffee, you know, it's just like talking about the pizza, you know.

It's part of our tradition. Marcello Uzzi offers high-end tours of his city and says this is a regular stop. Espresso, simply called coffee here, takes about 30 seconds to brew, a little less than that to drink.

Okay, please, next time, take your time. Moreno Faena works for Italian coffee powerhouse Ili. How many cups of coffee do you think you have in a day working here? Roughly 10.

He says it's a real shame to simply knock it back. Think about what happened before the 50 beans were selected. How many people was involved in preparing the right cup of espresso?

And then you have to appreciate the balance, the right level of bitterness and the sourness and sweetness. There's so much to know that Ili developed a university of coffee at its headquarters in the northeastern port city of Trieste. There are more than 140 rules that can affect the final result in the coffee.

Yes, rules. Barista Stefano Gianini is a sort of coffee professor at Ili. What exactly is espresso?

If you consider from Latin, expression, it means under pressure. This is the way we extract the coffee. Italians invented this highly calibrated method of preparation, but first the beans must be roasted and ground just right, an art in itself. Ili imports coffee beans from about two dozen different countries and at any given time has around 100,000 bags of it on hand. That is enough to brew more than 650 million cups of coffee. That seems just about enough to fuel the city of Naples. Which brings us back to Marcello Uzzi. This is your local spot?

Yes, this is it. There is a bit of competition here among different Italian cities. Who has the best coffee? How can you compete with our coffee?

It's impossible. Indeed, espresso is brewed under pressure, with a fair dose of passion and pride. I'm Jane Pauley. Thank you for listening, and please join us again next Sunday morning. See you next time.
Whisper: medium.en / 2023-01-27 21:13:05 / 2023-01-27 21:30:38 / 18

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